4) Securing the eylet boards to the chassis

Before any components are positioned on (or attached to) the chassis, the main eyelet board, the filter board, and the bias adjustment board (small board near the pilot lamp), along with their associated backboards should be positioned and drilled through the chassis. Five holes in total. The filter board carries the power filter circuitry and is attached to the outside (or underside) of the chassis. The idea here is to drill the holes and remove all of the metal shavings prior to placing any components in the chassis. Drilling up front saves a headache later.

Prior to the build, it is essential to scour the web for as many images of the chassis as it takes to make you comfortable with positioning the boards and the components on the boards. No big thang - there are tons of images out there.

main board:
Two 8-32x1" machine screws work well to secure the main eyelet board to the chassis. Drill holes (centered laterally on the board) about 1 1/4" in from both ends of the board. The 1" screws are longer than the ones that come with the kit. They provide the advantage of allowing the board to be lifted away from the chassis (by backing the nuts almost all of the way off of the screws) while still remaining in place and attached. Lifting the board allows wires to be fed under the board, as will be required later.

Note that the screws should be placed so that the nuts are on the outside of the chassis, opposite the main eyelet board, thus (down the road) enabling a quick visual inspection inside the cabinet to verify that the nuts are still secure. If the nuts are toward the eyelet board inside the chassis, they could eventually work loose and fall into the components on the board, unbeknownst to the guy with the dead BFDR that smells of burnt components.

filter board:
The position of the filter board on the outside of the chassis is defined by the holes pre-drilled for its can cover. When the filter boards' position has been established, a screw hole must be drilled through the sandwich made up of the center of the filter board, the chassis, and main board. This single screw will secure the daughter board, and is sufficient as the daughter board fits neatly under the can cover with no room for lateral movement ie. the can cover holds the board in place. Use an 8-32x1" screw here as well, for the same reasons mentioned above.

bias board:
I'll call this small board the bias board (for lack of a better name). It can be positioned and drilled near the pilot lamp. Two of the shorter 8-32 screws (with the kit) will work fine here, as the behind-the-board wiring can be completed before the board is screwed in place. Again, I prefer to keep the nuts outside the chassis.

That's it - 5 holes completed.